Day 7: The Hole-In-the-Wall Burger

27 Jul

My housemate, Abdul, has accused me of only eating are “elitist” burgers. To which I say: half the point of this is to go sit in air conditioning, which they don’t usually have at your local hole-in-the-wall. 

But I thought he had a point, and eating “gourmet” burgers every day is getting a bit expensive, so I decided to go to BIG & Little’s, where they’ve got truffle fries but no AC. Luckily it was a pleasant day so it wasn’t much of an issue. The place is located on N Orleans along what I’ve heard is called the cabbie restaurant row; its nearest neighbors are a Pakistani restaurant and a liquor store.

The burger itself is an excellent basic burger (though not Chicago’s best, as claimed by one Yelp reviewer), the kind you hope to get at a cookout or your local diner/grill: beefy (but not too thick) patty, no exotic condiments or fancy cheeses.

It also demonstrates why a good bun is so important. What’s the point of serving a juicy, hand-formed, grilled-to-order patty on a bun that disintegrates into a wonderbread pulp three seconds after you start eating it?

As tasty as the burger was, it was completely overshadowed by the truffle fries:

People ask what truffle tastes like. Not mushrooms. As far as I can tell, truffles are basically pure umami, sometimes called the “fifth taste.” Think of the savory deliciousness of a perfectly roasted chicken or steak (or grilled portabellas or something, for all the vegetarians out there). In powder form, truffles are kind of like culinary crack, or Western-style MSG. Coat some freshly deep-fried potatoes with this pixie dust and they’re basically irresistable.

Reader, I ate the entire basket. 

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